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Sunday,
March 19th, 2006
Capt. Wm
Clark (Peyton C. "Bud" Clark)
My
flight out of Michigan left at 6:30 AM, arrived at Portland 10:30
Pacific time. My good friend Roger Wendlick picked me up at the
airport, and we headed for his house to look at the document box
that once belonged to Reuben Lewis, brother of Meriwether Lewis.
It was a feeling that is difficult to describe, to hold something
in your hands that may well have been used by Capt. Lewis, and it
is a matter of record, that it was used by his brother Rubin Lewis
while serving as subagent on the upper Missouri reporting to Superintendent
of Indian Affairs, Wm Clark. Roger and I had a nice visit and there
is good reason to believe that with a little horse trading among
friends, the Lewis document box will soon reside in the William
Clark family collection. At midday Roger and I left for the Vancouver
ramp on the lower Columbia River to meet Josh, Sid, and Dick Brumley
for a trial paddle in the Chinook canoe Dick built over the winter.
It was incredible! The canoe handled like a dream and took 3-4 foot
swells in stride… a dramatic difference from paddling a 2,000
lb hollowed out log (a dugout canoe). By 5 PM, we all arrived at
Netul Landing, on the Lewis and Clark River, adjacent to Ft. Clatsop.
Camp was all set up and we had only to move in and enjoy a quiet
evening around the fire. Good to see old friends and brothers in
the Corps, but my body is three hours ahead of everyone else; I
crash early.
Monday,
March 20th, 2006
Young Shannon
(Josh Loftis)
Arrived in camp last night with Dick Brumley, Sid Stoffels, Bud
Clark, and “Mad” Jack Simmons. Have a leisurely morning
as the guys slowly start to adjust to life on the trail once again.
Ran a few errands this morning and did more recon with my local
contacts. Over the past several days Dick, Sid, and I have been
reconing from Lewiston, ID down as we made our way to Astoria, OR.
Yesterday, we met up with Bud, Roger Wendlick, “Mad” Jack,
Mark Johnson, and Jim Drew, our water safety coordinator, in Vancouver,
WA to take the Chinook canoe on its first trial run. We were all
more than pleased with how the canoe handled in the water and Jim
Drew was surprised at the swells we took from other water craft
with little or no difficulty. This is the Rolls-Royce of canoes.
It is awesome to see all the familiar faces of all the families
and friends we made out here last year on the trail. My first day
in camp and I still can’t believe that we are out here. We
took the canoe and put it in Lewis and Clark River for a practice
run. Spent a good evening catching up with the rest of the guys,
we are all looking forward to tomorrow…
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
After my last day with Charlie and a night of semi-sleep, I awoke
to my first day in camp. The DESC is encamped in Netul Landing,
a mile from Ft. Clatsop, next to the Lewis and Clark river. The
spot is supposed to be where Lewis and Clark first landed, before
heading downriver to Ft. Clatsop. The new National Park is doing
some landscaping in the area, and our camp was made on a gravel
bed, which made it very uncomfortable for moccasin wearers. I spent
most of my day getting to know the group members, who proved to
be experts in Lewis and Clark crafts. I’m the second youngest
member of the group, older than Derek, who was born in Nov. 1986,
and seven days younger
than Josh, who was born Aug. 17 ’86. Under Jim Stanley’s
watchful eye, I also did some cosmetic surgery on my moccasins,
converting a toe to a pucker seam. Jim is also the camp’s cook,
and he does a fantastic job with pancakes especially. One member,
Dick Brumley, spent several months carving a Chinook canoe, which
we took out in the Lewis and Clark River today. It was a crash course
in canoeing –every member is willing to offer advice on form
and style, which extends to just about every craft. I feel especially
connected to Norm Bowers (aka Sgt. Pryor), because he speaks German.
Tuesday,
March 21st, 2006
Capt. Wm
Clark (Peyton C. "Bud" Clark)
Awake before 6:00; my clock is still on Eastern Standard Time. Cold
morning, the fire feels good as we have breakfast. At 8:00 we raise
the colors. After colors we load the Chinook canoe and Josh, Norm
and I finalize the gifts for our Chinook friends. At 10:30 we depart
for Long Beach and arrive at about 11. It’s good to see our
old friend Ray Gardner, Vice Chairman of the Chinook and our good
friend Kris Magnuson, who was so hospitable last November during
our stay at Chinook Park. We arrived about an hour before the start
of the ceremony, providing an opportunity to chat with Ray and others
and renew old friendships. About noon, representatives from the
Mayor’s Office and the Destination Pacific committee arrived
and the ceremony began. Ray is introduced and does a wonderful job
of helping everyone understand the significance of this very spiritual
event. He explains to the crowd how, in Chinook culture, the canoe
is considered a member of the family. It has a heart and a spirit
and must be treated with reverence and respect. The cedar that it
is made from is sacred in itself; it provides housing, utilitarian
tools, and most importantly, the Chinook canoes. Ray explains how
cleansing the canoes with cedar boughs, removes impurities, bad
thoughts and evil spirits. Young Shannon (Josh Loftis) next addresses
the crowd and gives an overview of what will transpire on this special
afternoon. It has been raining most of the morning, but as we moved
from the covered shelter out onto the sand where the canoe rests,
the rain suddenly stopped for the first time in hours. Each DESC
member and all others present were given a cedar bough and in single
file we all proceeded to sweep the canoe from stem to stern. The
cedar boughs were then burned in the fire to rid all the impurities.
The group then returned to the shelter where Ray once again took
the microphone and led us all in a prayer. He asked the Great Spirit
to grant us safe passage as we begin our homeward bound journey.
In addition, his prayer asked the Great Spirit to guide us that
all people of all colors in our great nation may come together as
one family. Josh then presents Ray and the Chinook tribe a fifteen
star flag and a traditional gift of tobacco and trade goods. I thank
Ray for the hospitality that has been bestowed on us by the Chinook
and their sincere friendship, and in particular I thank him for
sharing his spirituality. I gift Ray with a necklace of blue Padre
Beads and a trade silver cross; the beads are symbolic of things
traded at the mouth of the Columbia 200 years ago, and the cross
symbolic of his spirituality. This was a very magic experience,
and it is impossible to put the powerful experience into words.
Our relationship with the Chinook has taken us outside the realm
of living history and into a very personal relationship, where perhaps
in terms of healing and reconciliation, we are making history! To
everyone’s knowledge this is the first time in 200 years permission
was granted to replicate a Chinook canoe and subsequently receive
a tribal blessing to use it in our journey. The special bond we
have made with the Chinook is very real and meaningful, and we in
the Discovery Expedition know it represents the very essence of
our Bicentennial Legacy.
Young Shannon
(Josh Loftis)
Awake early and begin preparing for the day at hand. Under Dick’s
supervision, we loaded the canoe and gathered our gifts for beginning
our move to Long Beach, WA at 10:30. We arrived shortly after 11
and began the preparations for the ceremony which would begin at
noon. When we first arrived I immediately saw Ray Gardner and went
over to greet him. It has been too long since we last saw one another.
Under Ray’s guidance a few of us started a fire on the beach
and the canoe was carried onto the sand dunes with the great Pacific
Ocean as its’ backdrop. It was raining and it was windy. Ragan,
who had worked so hard on planning this event was very concerned,
but just minutes before we started the rain ceased, and the ceremony
began. After an introduction, I spoke briefly to the small crowd
that had gathered and then introduced Ray. He told the people what
would be taking place and the importance of what was about to happen
and then he lead us down to the canoe. With cedar boughs every man
swept over the entire canoe, removing the impurities from this vessel.
Ray reminded us that this canoe was going to protect us and we needed
to have open hearts as we proceeded with the ceremony. He soon invited
down many of the public to come and partake with us in the sweeping
out and cleansing of the canoe. When all were finished, we proceeded
down to the fire that was made and stood around it in a circle.
There was a moment of silence and I’m sure many of the men
said their own prayers in their hearts as I did. We then proceed
to place our cedar boughs onto the fire until they were all completely
devoured by the flames. Once we completed this, we made our way
back on top to continue with the ceremony. Ray said a very appropriate
prayer, one in which I believe any man of any faith would agree
with. A tribal canoe is not just a canoe, but a member of the tribe.
It carries with it a responsibility and a mission to protect the
lives of the people within it. As the canoe is such a large part
of the coastal tribes they even give them names. During the prayer
Ray announced that the Chinook name of this canoe would be ITs WOOT
which means “Black Bear.” I immediately knew why Ray had
chosen this name and I know it will serve as a reminder of the friendship
and bond that we share. After the prayer we wanted to thank Ray
for the amazing and incredible gift he gave all who were present.
Capt. Lewis (Bryant Boswell) read a document that acknowledged the
importance of the help given to the Discovery Expedition by the
Chinook tribe and presented it to Ray. We also gave him a bag which
contained some traditional trade items that L & C would have
carried along with a fifteen star, fifteen stripe flag. Capt. Clark
(Bud) gave him a blue beaded necklace with a silver cross that hung
on it. And last, to repay him for all he had given me, I gave him
a blanket and a silk sash. To tell the story or put into words what
the Chinook tribe or Ray Gardner mean to me would be one of the
most difficult task I would have had to have undertaken the entire
Bicentennial. Finally, I present Ragan with a medium size peace
medal on a strand of blue beads in appreciation for her dedication
to DESC, the Chinook nation, and the legacy of this Bicentennial.
The entire ceremony had so much meaning to all of us that I’m
sure no one there will ever forget it. It is extremely difficult
to write about something so great that even your own mind cannot
even fully make it clear. Afterwards we all went to lunch at the
Cottage Bakery and I spent more time talking with Ray. When everyone
was finished and it was time to part ways I thanked Ray once again
for everything, for his guidance, and for his friendship. In the
evening we went to Kris’s house for a get-together. Had a great
time and then went back to camp.
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
The day began with repairs on my leather pants; the stitching
in the back had broken. Jim Stanley, leatherworker extraordinaire,
showed me how to use the scrap moose leather I had brought along
to fix it. We didn’t have much time in camp, because Josh and
the leaders (but mainly Josh Loftis, the 19-year-old phase leader)
had organized a special canoe dedication and blessing by the vice
chairman of the Chinook tribe, Ray Gardner. We crossed the Columbia
and traveled to the town of Long Beach for the ceremony. Lewis and
Clark had camped on the north side of the Columbia before crossing
to the southern end to make Fort Clatsop. Clark had hiked as far
north as Long Beach, carving his name on a tree and observing a
whale skeleton before turning back to camp.
Wednesday,
March 22nd, 2006
Young Shannon
(Josh Loftis)
Spent most of the day in camp. Many of our men helped the Ft.
Clatsop reenactors preposition their dugout and Clatsop canoe. When
they arrived back in camp, many of them were covered in mud at least
up to their waist. I spent much of my time with my good friend,
who I fear I will not see much more after we leave this place. In
the evening most of the Corps spent a good time around the fire
while I shared the story of my friendship with Ray Gardner and why
he chose the name “ITs WOOT” for the canoe. I was also
very pleased honored to present Sean Johnson with a silver crew
medal and to thank him for his sincere and honest friendship and
help to the Discovery Expedition. He is one man I wish could accompany
us this entire year. We have known each other since I was fifteen
and though we do not always keep in constant contact we have much
of the same drive and passion for the story and the same brotherly
love I believe many members of the original Corps shared.
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
We spent today in camp. It’s funny how long it takes to
do anything in camp, or at least how much is added to your daily
tasklist each day. Norm Bowers (Sgt. Pryor) surprised me this morning
at flagraising by calling me as part of the honor guard. I improvised
and seemed to do alright. Showers were a mid-morning treat; I went
with Sarge and several others to the Fort Clatsop visitor center
to enjoy hot running water for a moment. Later, we helped take an
old replica dugout canoe up the Lewis and Clark river toward our
camp. The tide was partially out, so I followed Derek and a few
others into the knee-deep muck to pull the canoe (basically a log)
out to the current. It wobbled and bobbed, and even took on water,
but it held until we reached the landing. A man told me the water
was 45 degrees; I was grateful for the wetsuit I had just bought
a couple days ago. Finding time to write the journal is difficult.
I’m still awed by public reactions to my appearance in town.
When we walked in Long Beach yesterday, a car stopped and honked
at the group, and a girl whistled. People are usually surprised
to see period clothing. I imagine it’s like seeing someone
stepping out the past just down the aisle or street. Those are some
of my favorite moments so far.
Thursday,
March 23rd, 2006
Capt. Wm
Clark (Peyton C. "Bud" Clark)
All up at 6:30 to pack our gear and make ready to begin our
homeward bound journey. DESC forms up and participates in the rededication
of Ft. Clatsop. From the Fort we move to the Netul Trail for a brief
dedication ceremony of the new footpath from the Fort to Netul Landing.
After the ceremony we proceed on down the trail back to our encampment
at the landing and make ready to push off. The parting ceremony
takes place at 12:30. It is a typical March day on the lower Columbia,
raining off and on and no sun, but it did not dampen anyone’s
spirits or the enthusiasm of the crowd. Our Clatsop-Nehalem friends,
who welcomed us ashore in November 2005, are there to gift us and
wish us safe passage. We in turn gifted them with peace medals and
traditional tobacco. Capt. Lewis, Josh, and I all said a few parting
remarks. Capt. Lewis presented a document and token of appreciation
signed by Discovery Expedition leadership. I reminded all present
of our warm reception in 2005 and how, on our return to Netul Landing
and a chance to see our old friends among the Clatsop-Nehalem nation,
was like a family reunion. On behalf of DESC, I thanked them for
their hospitality and friendship. At about 1:00 we pushed off to
the cheers and best wishes of the crowd and began our paddle to
Pier 39 east of Astoria. Our trip down the Lewis and Clark River
was done with ease, but when we turned the corner and headed east
up the Columbia we ran headlong into the outgoing tide and learned
a valuable lesson; in the future, our movements on the lower Columbia
will be with the tide, not against! In spite of the adverse tidal
currents, we were able to hug the shoreline, stay out of the worst
current, and arrive at Pier 39 without too much struggle. Our host,
Floyd Holcomb, member of the Oregon National Guard Special Forces
that assisted us last November, treated our group to a magnificent
buffet dinner featuring fresh Dungeness crab. As if we had not been
pampered enough, Floyd presented Capt. Lewis and I with the key
to the “Captain’s Suite” for the night. The Captain’s
Suite is above Floyd’s bar, restaurant, and office area in
the old cannery dating back to the late 19th Century. Floyd has
done a magnificent job renovating the cannery and turning it into
offices, fine dining, and luxury suites overlooking the Columbia.
In fact, the Captain’s Suite literally sits on piers in the
Columbia with lots of windows to watch the ships and the setting
sun over the Pacific. This was not a Lewis and Clark experience;
it was anything but. Capt. Lewis and I enjoyed a memorable evening
relaxing in the lap of luxury. For a brief moment I felt a tinge
of guilt knowing the men were sleeping in much lesser accommodations,
such as the floor of the cannery….I got over it and slept well.
Young Shannon
(Josh Loftis)
Spent the morning preparing for the ceremonies at hand. We marched
into Ft. Clatsop in two columns and presented arms during the posting
and retiring of the colors. After the ceremonies we all walked the
trail down to Netul Landing. It was a mile and a half and I surprisingly
made it almost 2/3rds of the way before I had to stop, my leg being
in much pain. To my relief, I saw Jim Drew and he gave me a ride
to camp. There we had a short amount of time before our departure
and the men made ready the canoes. All the men were each individually
gifted by the Clatsop-Nehalem Confederated Tribes. We in turn presented
them with some gifts thanking them for their hospitality. Just around
one o’clock, we shoved off in the two Indian canoes and one
dugout. When we passed by the landing downriver we parted ways with
the dugout and Clatsop canoe and proceeded on to Pier 39. One we
got out into Young’s Bay the flood tide did not start as soon
as we hoped and we battled the current for one hour before the tides
came and relieved our backs. As we paddled under the great Astoria
Bridge, in the mighty Columbia River, I am reminded of the River’s
spirit and to never underestimate its power. Saw a group of seals
as we paddled by and we apparently disrupted them as they started
to holler and hurl themselves into the water. They swam around the
boat for awhile until they had satisfied their curiosity and went
back to their normal routine. We finally arrived at Pier 39 and
immediately set up our sleeping quarters. In the evening we had
a dinner fit for a Viking king provided by Floyd Holcom. It consisted
of 50 lbs of crab and a full meal with all the fixin’s. Hung
out in the Captain’s Quarters until retiring for the evening.
The tides tomorrow are of great concern and will most likely alter
our original plans.
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
200 years ago today, Lewis and Clark departed Fort Clatsop,
leaving the Fort and several notices of their Pacific trek to the
natives. Accordingly, our day was packed with ceremonies and events.
The first ceremony was held at the Fort, with Fran Manila (I think),
the head of the Park Service, in attendance. She shook my hand,
and I was sure she was some sort of dignitary. We marched in two
rows into the partially-completed fort, then shouldered, poised,
and presented arms. I’m not used to military operations or
drill, but the motions certainly help focus the mind and discipline
the body. I made the mistake of taking out my insoles in my moccasins,
and suffered for it in our after-ceremony walk back to Netul Landing
(about 1 mile upriver). The path was gravel and I could feel most
stones through the soles of my soaking wet feet (the weather has
been rainy for the past 3 days). When we returned to the Landing,
we had a brief opportunity to eat before beginning to pack the Chinook
canoe and a dugout into the water. Representatives from the Clatsop-Nehalim
confederated tribe gave us all toilet paper, salmon, and jam individually.
An odd collection of gifts, but well-intentioned. Protesters used
the media opportunity, sailing a boat advertising against a natural-gas
plant on the Columbia. I sat in the second row of the Chinook (who
now has a name –ITs WOOT, or, black bear –which is from
the oldest extant Chinook dialect) behind Dick Brumley, the maker.
He set a fantastic pace as we entered Young’s Bay from the
mouth of the Lewis and Clark on our way to Pier 39 in Astoria. We
had an escort of a rubber motorcraft and a Coast Guard boat, who
observed while we battled the current. We had intended to catch
the tide as it came in from the low-tide point, but it was late
(that moon is never on time!) and we struggled upriver for some
while. There was some lewd humor (standard with the men) and the
guys made fun of my weight, since I shifted the boat around whenever
I moved. We also surprised some seals underneath a fishery, who
jumped their platform in surprise, making us believe from the noise
the pier was collapsing. We’re staying now in an old cannery,
which has been renovated to include an alehouse and coffee place.
Our hosts put on a fantastic buffet with crab –warm hospitality
on this cold, rainy coast.
Friday,
March 24th, 2006
Young Shannon
(Josh Loftis)
Our departure was delayed until 3 PM because of the long outgoing
tide. We proceeded to move camp to Skamokawa and then returned with
ITs WOOT and the crew to Pier 39. After shoving off we began our
long push up the river. Soon we crossed over to the north side by
Grey’s Bay and there were an average of four and five foot
swells pushing us up the river. ITs WOOT handled beautifully and
I am impressed by its stability. We rode fifteen miles before the
sun set and we still had five miles to go. So freezing and cold
we sat while we were being pulled the last five miles by a Zodiac.
Once we arrived the men immediately went to the fire to warm themselves,
change into dry clothes, and ate dinner. Had some singing around
the fire, which greatly lightened the spirits of the men.
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
The men are returning to their tents now, after an hour or two
of singing. Many things have changed since this morning. I now have
a nickname, and feel especially welcome in the group. After breakfast
at Pier 39, we transferred our vehicles to Skamokawa. The convoy
had 10 vehicles –I was in the back vehicle, nicknamed Sharkbite,
with Derrick and Sid. The constant chatter of walkie-talkies and
attention to minutia reminded me that this is a paramilitary group,
but also struck me as comic. Skamokawa, on the Washington side of
the Columbia, has an windblown park and beach where we set up camp.
Settled ash from Mt. Saint Helens formed into light grainy stones,
which now dot the beaches on the Columbia. We then came back to
the Pier to take the Chinook across. Dick took up a lighter pace,
and the convoy of the Sheriff and the rubber motorcraft followed
us as we pointed off Tongue Point to cross the Columbia. The distance
was about 5 miles across, and 10 miles to Skamokawa, we estimated.
It was invigorating to cross the river in an open canoe. We were
treated to fantastic views of Saddle Mountain and the mouth of the
Columbia. We sang and chanted, and I even began a song or two. It
sped the canoe along, and we were soon in the middle of the Columbia.
Large swells of 5-10 feet occasionally rocked ITs WOOT, but she
cut the water smoothly most of the time. I earned my nickname –Retro-
by my knowledge of older song and their lyrics, I guess. Perhaps
it fits my character in other ways as well. After crossing, we stopped
at a small island to pee; Jeff and I switched places on the boat
to work our other arms. As dusk came on, I laughed, because our
stroking became uneven. When night fell, the trip was almost instantly
uncomfortable. We were towed in by Floyd (our generous escort and
host of last night) the last 5 miles. It was cold and dark. My wetsuit
was a godsend. Lights finally guided us in to Skamokawa, where warm
clothes and hot food awaited us. After a reinvigorating meal, I
was presented with a full-body red pajama suit, in honor of my losing
my black long underwear last night (I had since found it). The men
had a good laugh on me, and I even tried it on for them. Their laughter
welcomed me into the group, I believe.
Saturday
March 25th, 2006
Young Shannon
(Josh Loftis)
Today we moved to County Line Park. Had dinner at Margaret Miller’s
house.
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
We transferred camp today from Skamokawa to County Line State
Park, a small spit of land along the Columbia between Skamokawa
and Frenchman’s Bar. I helped set up the tents, still learning
the routines of camp. The Park is popular for RVs and day fishermen.
A board near the restrooms sports photos of several locals with
large salmon, caught on the beach in front of camp. A lady, Margaret
Miller, invited us up to her beautiful house with a large kitchen
and a spectacular view of the Columbia River. Several locals –members
of the Columbia Canoeing Club among others- enjoyed the array of
hors d’oevres Margaret provided. She told me she was a Peace
Corps volunteer stationed in Peru –the highest ever, she claimed.
I told her about my language experience and my interest in the Corps.
I returned early with Josh after a chorus of “Roll On, Columbia,”
which Margaret accompanied on her autoharp.
Sunday,
March 26th, 2006
Young Shannon
(Josh Loftis)
Today is left to the men to get their personal gear and errands
in order. As we are just starting our movement this year many of
the men are still getting back into the swing of things. Went to
Wal-Mart and DQ with Dick and Alec. Alec and I are getting along
great and he is doing well. Many of the guys have taken to him and
he has already started to develop his own “Corps” personality.
We started diligently practicing our sign talking.
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
The weather was clear for most of the morning, but it rained
last night and intermittently for the rest of the day. I wanted
to organize my gear today, because having six separate bags had
become time-consuming and tiring. I consolidated my normal use clothing
into one bag, and my civilian clothing into another. I spent most
of the morning watching the first episode of “Into the West,”
a historical dramatization directed by Steven Spielberg, with Josh.
We then traveled with Dick Brumley to Lake View for shopping run.
I felt the stares as I looked for batteries at Wal-mart (something
that will take longer to get used too, I guess). Derek and I discovered
a tag in the surf today, which read “WEIR’S CREMATORIUM
CRESCENT CITY 1545.” We think it was a toe tag –someone
told me ashes are frequently put in the Columbia. An eerie find.
We finished up the evening with another two episodes of “Into
the West.”
Monday,
March 27th, 2006
Young Shannon
(Josh Loftis)
Moved camp to Frenchman’s Bar just W of Vancouver, WA.
Set up the lodge
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
Right now I’m sitting in an Indian lodge -tipi style- with
Derek and Josh. A hot fire is lit in the middle, and the smoke wicks
up through a hole in the top. I spent 30-45 minutes this afternoon
helping Josh and Bud set up the tipi, and I’ll be staying with
them in it this afternoon. The tipi is great, but I’m wondering
about its ability to keep rainwater from dripping on us –the
60 degree weather we enjoyed today won’t last forever. We moved
from County Line State Park to Frenchman’s Bar in West Vancouver,
which is also right along the Columbia. We have four nights here,
without a lot going on. I’m planning to shop for a silk bandana,
work on my mocs, and whittle a paddle. It doesn’t sound like
much, but activities in camp always take longer than I expect. However,
I move in faster now that I’ve packed my bags better. Ashes
are falling across my computer now. I feel like I’ll be coated
by morning. Mt. Saint Helens and Mt. Adams both rise distinctly
in the distance, beautiful with their full snow pack this season.
Tuesday,
March 28th, 2006
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
A slow day, spent mostly in camp. I went with Josh and Bud to
town today to use the wireless internet at a café. More stares.
We returned after a quick lunch at McDonalds, and a brief stop at
the Post Office. I wrote several postcards today –another important
duty I’ve neglected because I was so busy. They’re in
the mail now, posted all around the country. Walter Gotsch (portraying
Joseph Fields) set up a smoking station today, and several men worked
on their paddles. I’m ending the day with Josh and Derek at
Roger Wendlake’s house. We’re eating dessert at a restaurant
(reported to have cute waitresses). The fair weather continues –it
was sunny, with temperatures into the 60s today. We all fear the
“r” word, but know this weather is unseasonable and cannot
last. We’re spending another three nights at Frenchman’s
Bar.
Wednesday,
March 29th, 2006
Capt. Wm
Clark (Peyton C. "Bud" Clark)
Up at 7:00 and make ready for our presentation at the School
for the Blind in Vancouver. We arrive at about 9 and set up our
dog and pony show to begin at 9:30. I do the introduction and ask
the men to introduce themselves. Mike Bowman leads the clothing
presentation and I follow with comments about the officer’s
dress. Josh follows with a discussion about how the men by this
point 200 years ago, out of necessity, were dressed entirely in
skins. As we were presenting, members of the Corps worked their
way around the room to each and every student and allowed them to
touch, feel, and smell the different furs, swords, clothing, etc.
This was a magic experience, reminding us what our mission is all
about. Many times I was choked up, and with a tear in my eye, observed
the smiling faces of those less fortunate than I, as they thrilled
at the opportunity to “see” in their own special way the
mysterious things we presented. As I guided their hands over the
things I wore, the wool, the leather, my sword, the epaulette, and
joked and talked with them, I could not help but admire their courage
and their sense of humor in spite of their handicap. These kids
asked lots of very good questions and maintained their undivided
attention all during our visit. We sang our “Ken tuck’
Gals” with “Lions” ( the name of their school) inserted
wherever appropriate. It is difficult to put into words the feeling
as we left the school, gratified that we were able to add a little
joy to their lives, and filled with admiration for how courageously
they carry themselves. We could also not help but be thankful for
our own abilities and the privilege of sharing this Lewis and Clark
adventure. In the afternoon, we visited the Cathlapotle Plankhouse,
this being the historical day Lewis and Clark visited the longhouse
of the Cathlapotle in the same location. Coincidentally, upon our
arrival to the Plankhouse, we met with a group of deaf children.
Working through a sign talker, we were happy to spend some time
with them and explain our mission as well as entertain their questions
about Lewis and Clark. Again, a very gratifying experience and once
again, we were filled with admiration for these courageous young
people with such great attitudes and good sense of humor. Our tour
of the Cathlapotle Plankhouse is very up close and personal, and
we enjoy the very special hospitality. We arrive back at camp for
a quick bite to eat and at 6 leave to hear Gary Moulton talk at
the college in Vancouver. Gary is very pleased to see our group
and comes directly up and greets us. After his formal presentation,
we once again have a chance to chat with Gary and a number of other
friends we have met along the trail. Wow, what a great day crammed
full of magic experiences, wonderful sights and good friends; this
day reflects what we do and what we are all about, and I am very
proud to be a part of this.
Young Shannon
(Josh Loftis)
This morning we went to the Washington State School for the
Blind to give a presentation. It was truly one of the most humbling
experiences of my life. The group of 40 or so blind students made
me feel like I was sometimes very unappreciative of the things in
my life and I was once again reminded how blessed I am that my atv
accident over the winter only broke my leg and not my neck. They
were very appreciative and grateful every time we would come by
to show them something. We went around to each kid letting them
feel our clothes and different hides like those of the buffalo,
elk, bear, etc. We also showed them utensils, beads, and some of
the things from the medicine chest that had certain smells or aromas
to them. I had never given a presentation to a group of blind students
until today but I believe this has made me a better presenter and
I am so happy I was able to share the experience with them. Afterwards
some of us went and got showers before returning to camp. Just before
2 o’clock some of the men went to Cathlapotle too see the Chinook
plank house, Sid and I volunteered to be camp guard. While we were
in camp we were surprised with a visit from Dave Rosander, one of
the Special Forces guys that accompanied us last year. It was great
to catch up. When the rest of the Corps arrived back in camp not
only were they impressed with the plank house but yet another great
opportunity had made its’ way to them. They just happened to
be there when a group of deaf school students arrived. They stayed
and talked with them for quite a while. In the evening many of us
went to Clark College to hear Gary Moulton speak. Saw many familiar
faces from last year’s journey down river. Intermediate showers
of rain as Alec, Bud, and I talk in the teepee before we fall asleep.
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
Today the weather returned to typical Northwest conditions –grey,
overcast, and rainy. We went to the WA State School for the Blind
for my first presentation. It was a moving experience –the
kids were excited and enthusiastic for Lewis and Clark. I brought
around a deer hide, with an antelope hide for comparison. The kids
made fascinating analogies for the hide’s texture. One kid
commented, “It feels like the crinkly paper you fold.”
It must have something to do with their heightened senses. Capt.
Clark commented later that the experience reminded him of the Corps’s
essential mission, and I agree. It was great. Afterwards, we drove
to the community center for hot showers. There’s nothing like
one after you missed it for a week. The sensation was distinctly
like glowing for me –though I donned my dirty clothes afterwards,
I felt impervious to them, at least for a short time. We returned
to camp briefly, then set out to see an authentic Chinook-style
plank house, at the site of Cathlepotle, a one-time village of about
14 houses. The house was smaller than most, though it fit 80 people.
We walked around the breezy, dark interior, admiring the native-style
painting and carving. I noticed cedar boughs between the rooftop
and seating/bunk area. Upright beams which lined the center of the
plank house had large native carvings, detailing a chief and the
chief’s father and mother. Striking were the flattened ribcages
of the carvings, visible beneath the robes of the figures. They
must have ceremonial or sacred importance. One enters the structure
through a small circular entrance near the ground. It reminds me
of the entrance to other Indian lodges, like our Indian tipi in
camp. By forcing the visitor to bow low, it commands respect and
humility. It also prevents warring parties from bringing cumbersome
weapons inside, much like Japanese tea houses. During our visit
to Cathlepotle, we met a group from the WA State School for the
Deaf. They questioned us for awhile. I was awed by the blur of the
interpreter’s hands. The ranger at Cathlepotle noted that DESC
was there the same day and time that the original Corps had traveled.
We returned to camp only briefly before leaving again, this time
to hear Dr. Gary Moulton lecture at Clark college. The lecture,
entitled “The New Look of Lewis and Clark,” was a general
speech, focusing on Clark’s relationship with York and Lewis’s
depressions. It was a bit too general for the devoted Lewis and
Clark audience, but the story of their lives is so interesting it
carries itself. Bud and Josh were recognized at the end of the speech,
and I received an autograph from Dr. Moulton himself. We left for
Beaches, the restaurant where we had spent the previous night, in
search of food and a cute hostess. We found one without much attention
from the other. I found out last night that Roger Wendlick was also
a respected Lewis and Clark authority. He carries an original peace
medal from the time of the expedition around his neck. At one time
he owned the largest private collection of Lewis and Clark books
in the world.
Thursday,
March 30th, 2006
Young Shannon
(Josh Loftis)
Awake to a sky completely covered with a thick blanker of clouds.
Jeff Troupe arrived in camp today. A very uneventful and dreary
day.
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
I’m sitting in the tipi again with Josh, a small fire lit
in the center. Some young boys stopped in to visit but were instantly
driven out by the smoke (the tipi wasn’t set up quite right;
it lacks the proper draft). It was another slower day, which I spent
in town with Josh and Bud. We went to the Java Coffee Shop for a
few hours, since it has wireless internet. We went to Walmart, and
I bought a duffel bag to organize my gear. Afterwards, we ate at
Burgerville (a small NW fast-food chain) and drove out to a scuba
specialty shop in search of sealskin socks, which they didn’t
have. After returning to camp, we talked with guests, exercised
a little (I’m trying to get in shape), and worked on our Indian
signs. We’re trying to learn the universal system of signs,
which is pretty basic and would make a fun interpretive station.
Friday,
March 31st, 2006
Young Shannon
(Josh Loftis)
Move camp to Marine Park. Due to the tides we are waiting till
the afternoon to paddle from Frenchman’s Bar to our new encampment.
For lunch we are invited over to Jim Drew’s house were we had
a hardy lunch of good ol’ fashion greasy American burgers.
We went back to Frenchman’s Bar and departed in ITs WOOT at
4:20 p.m. Had some light rain but nothing we weren’t already
accustomed to. Arrived at camp in just under 3 hours. Have a late
dinner and then go to sleep.
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
Today we broke camp at Frenchman’s Bar and transferred
to Marine Park in Vancouver. The park was in an industrial area,
but was nonetheless a pretty spot –there was a jogging path,
and a nice view of the river. Unfortunately, outbound jets from
Portland frequently disturbed any tranquility of the setting. Melinda
called me today and we arranged to see each other that afternoon
and evening. I missed the water movement for the day, instead waiting
on Melinda to make it through traffic to pick me up. After she made
it, we went to REI and I purchased an expensive pair of Sealskin
socks, which are waterproof and excellent for the river. I saw her
small apartment and her three cats, which the landlady reminded
us were forbidden as we walked in. After a drink we went to the
Jamaican restaurant where she had worked to see Wes, her boyfriend.
He seemed friendly, thoughtful, and laid-back. We talked about race
relations at Middlebury College and the US in general. Melinda told
me he want to be a professor in ethnic/racial studies. Afterwards,
I took Melinda and her roommate Tara out to dinner at a Cuban restaurant.
The ethnic food was great, and I honestly enjoyed female company
for awhile –I hadn’t realized how sorely I missed it.
Being with a group of guys, you get masculine humor, talk, body
language, etc., and completely miss the feminine perspective. It
was genuinely refreshing. After dinner, Melinda took me home.
Saturday,
April 1st, 2006
Young Shannon
(Josh Loftis)
Awoke early and prepared for our move to Capt. Clark Park in
Washougal, WA. Once underway we paddled to keep warm as the sky
was still glazed over with clouds but whenever there was a break
and the sun shown through we welcomed it with open arms. Saw a lot
of wildlife throughout the course of the day including dicks, geese,
hawks, sand hill cranes, osprey, and even the occasional cow. We
stayed close mainly to the S side of the river to give us some break
from the current as we paddled behind the islands. Stopped at 11
to let the men rest and eat for a short while. We hit some very
swift current head on but our crew paddled hard and we continued
our push up the Columbia. The last couple of miles the sky cleared
and the men’s spirits were high as they all sang while we paddled
into camp. Roger Daniels, our most gracious of hosts, brought us
some meat and other foods. A nice quiet evening. Tomorrow a contingent
of us will go with Capt. Clark as we recon the Willamette River.
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
We woke early today -5:45- in order to begin rowing with the
tide in our favor. We continued for 5 hours, with a 30 minute break
on Government Island. These long islands divided the river for miles.
ITs WOOT proved itself once more –we plunged through strong
currents with relative ease. We sang, talked, and passed the morning
pretty fast, arriving at camp at 1:15. I felt like I had grown stronger
already, and could row without fatigue for longer stretches of time.
There was a crowd to welcome us. I helped set up the tipi. By this
time, I was already feeling pretty worn out, so I collapsed on my
air mattress for awhile. The islands we passed were owned by the
government, but leased as grazing land, which I figured out from
the cow pies. We kept to channels with less current. From my position
in the back, I observed the growing fatigue of the group: people
took longer breaks and fewer strokes. It’s difficult to follow
a regular stroke, because not everyone actually follows Dick’s
lead. I ultimately decided to just follow the guy in front of me
to avoid hitting his oar. I feel very fatigued by now, since we
combined rowing and camp duties into one day. I didn’t want
to talk with the public this afternoon. I felt tired, frustrated,
and easily annoyed. I think it was due to lack of sleep, so I’m
going to treat myself to an early evening tonight.
Sunday,
April 2nd, 2006
Capt. Wm
Clark (Peyton C. "Bud" Clark)
Today is the 200 year anniversary of Clark’s recon on the
Multnomah River (modern day Willamette River). We are joined by
our friend Dr. Gerald Milner, black history professor from Portland
University, who stands in as York. I had the pleasure of meeting
Dr. Milner at the grand opening of the Missouri Historical Society
exhibit in Portland last November. He is a very interesting gentleman
and I welcome the opportunity to spend some time on the river with
him. Dr. Milner and I sat abreast in the canoe as we pushed off
from Clark’s Park at 10:00 AM and began our twenty-five mile
run past our previous camp in Vancouver and on down to the mouth
of the Multnomah. Onboard is Roger Wendlick, well known Portland
Lewis and Clark historian, member and great friend of the Discovery
Expedition. We enjoyed great conversation, song, and kibitzing as
we paddled to the event. In spite of the rain and cold, we had lots
of laughs and were please to be greeted by a large crowd as we landed
under the historic St. Johns Bridge. The gathering included the
mayor of Washougal and representatives from the Mayor’s office
in Portland. Our good friend and event coordinator for Clark’s
Park in Washougal, Roger Daniels, is the Master of Ceremonies. I
addressed the crowd briefly thanking them for their warm welcome,
and then turn it over to Josh, our young Shannon. Josh presents
Dr. Milner with a Corps crew medal and explains its significance
to the crowd. A very nice gathering; we hang around in spite of
the rain and interact with the people. About 3:00 the Corps assembles
and we carry “ITs WOOT” up to the trailer and head back
to camp to enjoy dry clothes and a warm fire. In the evening we
are visited by friends Ragan and Chris from Destination Pacific,
who once again come bearing gifts from Ragan’s family bakery.
The folks from Long Beach and the surrounding communities have been
repeatedly generous to the Corps, and we have built lifelong friendships
with the Destination Pacific folks. All enjoy a fun evening around
the fire at Clarks Park; lots of laughs, plenty of song and a fitting
close to another wonderful Lewis and Clark day.
Young Shannon (Josh Loftis)
A warm morning. The skies have the appearance of rain but Drouillard
(Roger Wendlick) assures me there will be no rain till 3 or 4 o’clock
judging by the view. Capt. Clark, myself, and seven other men including
“Drewyer” head downriver to explore the Willamette River
or as the natives called it the Multnomah. We were very honored
to have among us Darold Milner, a professor of African American
Studies at Portland State University. He is taking on the role of
York for the day and was included in the aforementioned number of
our party. We departed camp at 10 o’clock and headed downstream.
We made excellent time making more than 25 miles in just 4 hours.
The wind pushed hard from the E and made for an easier row. Stopped
for relief on Image Canoe Island before proceeding up the Multnomah.
Arrived at the park in Portland shortly after 3 p.m. A ceremony
was held commemorating Clark’s exploration of this area and
I had the great opportunity of presenting Mr. Milner with a silver
crew medal in appreciation for his participation today. The rain
started just after 3 and when the ceremony was over most of the
people left and we headed back for camp. Bud and I spent the evening
with Roger Wendlick and went to his house.
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
Today we woke at 7:00 and prepared to disembark on a trip to
reenact Clark’s exploration of the Willamette River, which
flows through downtown Portland. We started out from Washougal at
10:00 heading downriver. Since the current was in our favor, we
moved briskly and covered 4 miles in no time. Sites that had crawled
by yesterday zipped past us. Roger Wendlake, who helped organize
the event, accompanied us, pointing out objects of local lore and
interest. He knows the Lewis and Clark story in this area very well,
down to the minute details, plus he’s very funny to be around.
During our lunch break, he and Davey rigged up a sail from two paddles
and a windbreaker, and caught the wind while we ate. Later, we crossed
to a southern channel of the Columbia, where houseboats and marinas
abounded. We gawked, but soon realized that we were going to be
late, so we accepted a tow to the mouth of and up the Willamette,
until we were close to the park where the ceremony was to be held.
We paddled the last stretch, and came ashore in the rain. We marched
underneath some tents for some speeches and presentations, including
a proclamation by the Mayor of Portland, and soon returned with
our vehicles back to Washougal. I fell asleep. When we returned,
Ragan, Ana, and Kris were waiting to meet us, along with two pots
of buffalo stew. Yummy. I’m feeling pretty tired by now –I
hope to get to bed early tonight.Monday,
Monday,
April 3rd, 2006
Young Shannon
(Josh Loftis)
Another WET morning. Today is the 200th anniversary of the day
Capt. Clark and his party learned of the tragic epidemic of smallpox
that devastated theses lands and its’ people some 20 years
or so before the Corps arrival. A small group of us went to Blue
Lake near the site where the village Clark visited once stood to
pay our respects and remember those people who were stewards of
this land for so long. We held a very brief ceremony amongst ourselves
and a few citizens who happened to be there. Roger talked of this
place and what it meant to the people who lived there and still
do. We said a prayer and then departed. This place will always be
burned into my memory.
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
It was a relatively slow day today, spent mostly in camp. I
spent last night in the tipi, having moved from one of the bell
tents. I spent sometime trying to put in my contacts in Port-O-Potty,
and lost one through a crack. Where it’s floating now I don’t
want to imagine. The weather was mostly overcast, with occasional
sunlight and a little rain. I left with Sid to check mail in town
and run some other errands. There I picked up 2 packages, which
contained black boots, wool socks, and chocolate chip cookies. A
lady in the Bi-Mart mentioned she had seen us in the paper today.
Surprised, Sid and I rushed to buy copies of the Oregonian, where
I found a beautiful photo spread in the Metro section. We’re
all paddling in unison for the photo, faces strained with exertion
and arms poised to cleave the water. I’m about the only one
smiling, but Davey’s hat covers most of my face. Could be worse
–Derek’s head is the only part of him seen. Later, at
10:00, we left for small blessing and healing ceremony with Roger
Windlick. 200 years ago, Clark mentioned visiting a series of recently
abandoned Indian lodges near what is called Blue Lake today. On
questioning the reasons for their abandonment, a woman scarred by
smallpox was produced and the guide explained it had killed most
of the village. The disease killed thousands, maybe millions, of
Indians across the Americas –probably the worst in the history
of this continent. Yet it is relatively unknown, because the white-centered
history disregards it. What happened today was one small step towards
reconciliation with the Native Americans, the dominant goal of this
group now. Two carved totems marked a sacred spot on the shore of
Blue Lake, which is now a beautiful large park (it was called Edenic
by Roger). The two framed Mt. Hood, covered by clouds in the distance.
A small ceremony was held. After facing the four cardinal directions,
Josh spread tobacco on the ground. Jeff supplied sage, which we
burned and smudged ourselves with. A prayer was said and the significance
of the ceremony was explained. I felt privileged to participate;
less than 15 people attended. Afterwards, the sun came out briefly
and the clouds parted around the base of Mt. Hood. It blessed the
moment. Mt. Hood never fully came into view –symbolic of reconciliation
uncompleted, of healing still needed. Afterwards, I worked on my
paddle in camp until dinner. A rainbow appeared briefly after a
sudden rainstorm, but I didn’t feel any divine inspiration
with my paddle.
Tuesday,
April 4th, 2006
Young Shannon
(Josh Loftis)
Slept very well. As the day went on, many people came through
camp and visited us. We had a small group of kids from a day care
center that I chauffeured through camp and had a lot of fun with.
Many of the men are engaged with the public, others are working
on cedar paddles. At 6 we went to a local high school after watching
the National Geographic L & C film. Shortly after returning
to camp Alec and I spent a good evening out scouting. With the constant
rain we sometimes experience, I have frequent dreams in my sleep.
Sometimes in black and white, sometimes totally delusional, but
it seems that there is nothing I can do about them. My dreams reveal
my soul!
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
We spent the day in camp. The sun was shining early, and the
day warmed up to be beautiful, mostly clear, and even hot. Camp
bustled with visitors. For most of the afternoon, I sharpened my
gift knife from Charlie with a whetstone of John Fisher (aka “Fish”
aka the ghost of Sgt. Floyd). It was frustrating for me, because
I seemed to gain a sharp point and then lose it again. I really
had no idea what I was doing, and it was my first time. A day school
came through, and Josh directed them around camp. Jim showed them
flint and steel fire-starting, which looked like a fun station.
We ate dinner early, because we had a screening of a Lewis and Clark
National Geographic movie at the local auditorium. Afterwards, a
question and answer session lasted for some time. My young friend
–also named Alec- asked about 5 questions. He’s a hopeless
history nut, which reminds me of myself during middle school. Our
camp in Washougal sits next to the Columbia, in the newly commissioned
Clark Park. A popular party spot in the summertime, Clark Park is
a level flood plain extending out from a raised dike. The vegetation,
where uncontrolled, is thick and low-lying. Nettles (or itchweed,
as Derek calls it) grow here, indicative of saturated ground. Two
days ago, some men from camp dug a channel in the road by our camp
to drain standing puddles. When I mentioned the wetness, Sid Stoffels
(aka Pvt. Frasier) told me Cascade Locks is even worse –you
sink about a foot for every step you take. I hope it’s dried
out some with this sunlight.
Wednesday,
April 5th, 2006
Young Shannon
(Josh Loftis)
We are blessed again with another beautiful day. The Col, Capt.
Clark, and I went to find Internet at a local coffee shop. When
we left, we headed to an antique store and then back to camp. At
three o’ clock the sun disappeared and once again it poured.
We were fearful that our night around the campfire would be ruined
but after a couple of hours it was fine again. At seven o’
clock people started to arrive and prepare for an evening of festivities.
I was gifted with a picture from the Mayor of Washougal. Roger Wendlick
arrived shortly thereafter and I felt it was my duty to inform everyone
around the fire that it was his 61st birthday. Everyone joined in
singing “Happy Birthday.” Many of the men, including Roger,
took turns telling stories around the fire. An absolutely beautiful
evening.
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
Today was spent in camp. I was assigned KP (Kitchen Patrol)
today, so I was awake early after a late night. Today was also warm
like yesterday, but lacked the same constant sunshine. Only one
rain shower occurred in the afternoon, but it was an intense fall.
I spent the morning working on my knife and a few other menial tasks.
In the afternoon, I manned Jeff Sandalar’s station –focused
on hides- while he took a trip into Portland with a friend. It was
the first interpretive station I had worked since joining the group.
I really enjoyed interacting with the kids who came by. Jeff had
spread out an antelope, caribou, and elk hide for comparison. The
elk hide was the most pertinent to the Lewis and Clark story; 200
years ago they were hunting to gather meat before continuing upriver.
The caribou hide was out of place: it actually related to the Mackenzie
Expedition of 1793, not Lewis and Clark. I told lots of people this
afternoon they hunted for caribou. Oops. This is our last night
in Washougal. Tomorrow we move to Rooster Rock State Park, and then
on to Cascade Locks. Tonight we’re holding a bonfire for the
community, and I’m part of the entertainment. Earlier, I was
singing “MTA” by the Kingston Trio with Bud and the others
when inspiration struck. I tried a rendition of the “Corps
of Discovery Rag,” which the men loved. By now, I know I have
some talents to offer to the group, even if I’m inexperienced
with most camp tasks.
Thursday,
April 6th, 2006
Young Shannon
(Josh Loftis)
Awake and break camp. Roger, Bud, and I left to attend some
formalities in Vancouver, to dedicate a new walkway for better health.
We saw Chief Snyder of the Chinook nation and we talked for quite
awhile. Immediately following we returned to camp and prepared to
depart. Shortly after 2 PM we shoved off and headed for Rooster
Rock. Saw many heron and osprey on the island and more than one
hundred nests in the trees. Arrived at camp in just two short hours.
Roger and I went to small reception in Vancouver and afterwards
I took Roger to dinner at the Parker House for his birthday.
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
We left Washougal today, after a fantastic night of singing
and merrymaking by the fire. The city of Washougal welcomed us warmly:
the mayor was at our bonfire, police patrolled every night to keep
us safe, the Parsk Dept. brought firewood and hay bales to keep
us dry, the list goes on. This group draws out the hospitality and
giving spirit of people. It has reminded me of the general decency
of most people out there. After packing up camp, we moved to Rooster
Rock. Rooster Rock State Park lies next to the Columbia, and we
were treated to a fantastic sunset, looking west to Vancouver and
Washougal. I worked the ground crew today; the boat crew was largely
older men who paddled the canoe about 5 miles from Washougal. I
stole a nap in the afternoon while Derek went exploring. Judging
from how deep I slept, I must have needed the rest. We’re encamped
here another night. I can look upriver and see Beacon Rock about
8 miles away. Multnomah Falls (one of the longest in N. America,
I think) is also close. We’ll go exploring tomorrow. Right
now I’m very excited. Our camp was visited by a Native American
named Dale, from the Hood River area, who invited us to a Powwow
with a couple tribes, including the Umatilla peoples. It would be
my first, I think. Josh and Bud are late in returning. When they
do, I think they’ll also be very excited –this is another
opportunity to continue our mission of reconciliation with the native
peoples of the US.
Friday,
April 7th, 2006
Young Shannon
(Josh Loftis)
Awake to high winds that were blowing so hard they made tremendous
swells in the narrow river which tunneled through the valley. Went
upriver to scout and found nothing but worse conditions! Decided
to lay to and not try our luck though I have complete faith in ITs
WOOT and my crew. Dick Brumley and I did some scouting and went
to Cascade Locks, OR and Stevenson, WA where Corps II had just opened.
We saw Ray and Jill Gardner, who appear to be doing well. It does
my heart good every time I see them. We also saw Lyle and some of
our other good friends with the Park Service. After returning to
camp, I took some rest before dinner. We were blessed with a visit
from Dale Wheeler. He brought with him an invitation to the Spring
Salmon Ceremonies with the Umatilla, Yakima, and Warm Springs along
with an opportunity for reconciliation and healing. Many of us talked
for a very lengthy time around the fire and Dale even sang a few
songs for us. In appreciation for what he had done, I presented
him with a necklace of old Chevrons. Went to bed early.
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
When we awoke today, the wind was blowing hard and the Columbia
was frothy and churning. We suspended water movement. Mad Jack (aka
Jack Simmons aka Toussaint Charbonneau) invited Derek and I to come
with him on errands and exploration. After an unsuccessful run to
swap my defective duffel bag at Wal-mart, we traveled on Interstate
84 West, turning off to drive on the historic Columbia River Highway,
which runs alongside the steep green cliffs of the Columbia River
Gorge. We stopped first at Multnomah Falls, a cascade of water which
drops twice to form the second-highest year round falls in the United
States. Our visit to the gift center reminded me that we were also
attractions in our period gear. Jack was playful with the ladies
as they took our photos. I joked a little as well –guess I’m
becoming more comfortable as a reenactor. After Multnomah, we headed
for Cascade Locks for lunch, stopping at Horsetail Falls along the
way. We ate lunch at the Char Burger Restaurant, a cafeteria style
establishment which boasted a coffee and gift shop, along with a
fascinating display of 18th Century Western Americana –rifles,
Indian clothing, arrowheads in display cases, etc. When we entered,
I thought about taking some of the dusty relics off the walls, to
examine and attempt to use them. Later, I mentioned this to Derek
and Jack as an example of my growing reenactor mentality –it
was something I never would have thought about before. The restaurant
lies under a bridge which spans the Columbia, called The Bridge
of the Gods after a legendary natural landbridge which once crossed
there. Continuing our tour, we stopped at the small Post Office
of Bridal Veil, where the Postmaster told us his story. The community
of Bridal Veil long gone, the Postmaster –Lloyd- moved into
the two room office determined to make it successful. Over six years
he worked to establish the Office as the tourist spot which it has
become. “Now my superiors refuse to close this place down,”
he smiles, “I’m making them too much money.” Lloyd
offers all the regular services of a Post Office, plus a special
Bridal Veil canceling stamp, which attracts scores of couples to
send wedding announcements. We’re going to visit him tomorrow,
after I’ve written several post-cards to have him stamp. After
our talk with Lloyd, with drove up the Highway to Crown Point, where
we were almost blown off the cliff. The winds roared and the interpretive
center was closed for remodeling, but the Point offered beautiful
views up toward Beacon Rock and downriver towards Washougal. We
drove back to camp, and Derek and I left to explore Rooster Rock
State Park. We worked our way around the channel which separates
our camp’s peninsula from the mainland and along the Interstate.
The path Derek had taken yesterday was partly underwater, due to
increased release from the dams upriver. We ascended a rock point
adjacent to Rooster Rock, which also had great views of camp, Beacon
Rock, and Crown Point. From there, we walked back towards camp before
working our way out onto the spit of land at the tip of the peninsula.
We crossed beaver-chewed stumps and chest-high nettle before finding
that the very tip was also out of reach –our path had been
inundated. After returning and grabbing firewood, we supped and
enjoyed the company of Dale Wheeler, representing the Umatilla/Warm
Springs/Celilo Falls nations. We’ll be attending a Feast this
upcoming Sunday. We discussed protocol and the proper respects –Josh
took lead in the conversation, using his Shawnee heritage to empathize
with the customs and culture of these tribes.
Saturday,
April 8th, 2006
Young Shannon
(Josh Loftis)
Rained hard all night. Derek (Aqua Soldier) is living up to
his name once again as I found out he slept in a large puddle most
of the night. It continued to rain and the winds continued to blow.
I was informed that Bonneville Dam was releasing excess water which
further increased our problems. For safety we decided to trailer
to Cascade Locks and set camp in the rain. After we were finished,
the weather somewhat cleared and a group of eight of us decided
to paddle to Stevenson and meet up with Ray Gardner. As we approached,
Ray and a crew were out to greet us in their tribal canoe. We saluted
them as we approached and then came alongside and greeted them.
We paddled into the bay together and slowly maneuvered around the
small islands to assemble some interest on the banks before going
ashore. Once onshore, we talked with the public and let the men
rest. I was surprised and also very happy to see Chinook tribal
elder George Lageron(sp?). The last time I saw George was in 2002
on our trip with Hog Heaven Muzzleloaders. I spent most of my time
talking with George and Ray before saying our farewells and making
our way back to camp. Held formation and then Alec and I left to
go meet Ray and Jill. We had a great time talking and joined them
for dinner. I enjoyed catching up with them and our time of reflection
was much needed. Alec and I shared a platter of nachos, they were
as you say, “THE BOMB!!” Returned to camp and spent some
time with our friends before retiring for the evening. My thoughts
are much on tomorrow’s ceremonies and events. After much prayer,
I fell asleep.
Pvt. Peter
Weiser (Alec Weltzien)
We broke camp today at Rooster Rock and moved to Cascade Locks
–for the first time, I noted, in the rain. I rode with Jack
and we swung by Bridal Veil on our way to the Locks. Having arrived,
we waited in the rain for awhile for a break in the weather. We
ate lunch at Char Burger in town again, then returned and set up
camp at the Cascade Locks Marine Park. Cascade Locks is situated
in a narrow, lush valley above Bonneville Dam and The Bridge of
the Gods. Across the water lies the town of Stevenson, where Corps
II is encamped. As we were setting up, we met Ragan, Ana, her dog
Riley, and the Corps II employee Laura, whom I had met before in
my Forest Service job. After we finished with the tipi, Josh asked
for a set of volunteers, so that we might paddle across the Columbia
to Stevenson, meet Ray Gardner and another crew in a Chinook canoe,
and come ashore near Corps II. The current was swift and paddling
was difficult for me (I was using a homemade paddle). We met Ray
and saluted oars several times. With the two Chinooks on the water
we had paddled out from another era. After our meeting and time
at Corps II, we returned to shore with a swift current backing us.
I wasn’t long in camp before Josh invited me to come with him
to visit Ray Gardner and his wife Jill at the Skamania lodge, a
ritzy establishment above Stevenson. We had a great dinner with
them (on top of our dinner at home) and I enjoyed getting to know
more about Ray’s life and mission: his friendship with Josh,
relations with the Chinook, guidance by spirits, to name a few.
When we returned, Ragan, Ana, and Laura picked us up and we ate
at a diner in town with them. When we returned, I sang some songs
with Jeff, Mark Johnson, and Mike Bowman before retiring to the
tipi for the night.
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